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The posts are usually made with square tubing rather than solid metal. Typically rust begins where the railing posts are embedded in concrete or where the finish has been chipped. You should scuff-sand and recoat the bottom 2 inches of the posts every year, touch up any chips as soon as you notice them, and repaint the entire railing every five to eight years. Here are the basic steps for painting an iron railing.

• Tip: Don't tackle more than you can do in a single day and work when the weather is warm and dry. Corrosion starts immediately on bare metal so plan to paint the railing immediately after sanding and other surface preparations. Avoid painting when surfaces are damp, when humidity is above 80%, when the temperature may fall below 50 deg. F., or in the direct sun.

• Vinegar
• Sanding pad accessory for drill
• Scrub brush
• Sanding discs (coarse, medium, and fine)
• Drop cloths
• Emery cloths (coarse, medium, and fine)
• Dust mask
• Rust neutralizer
• Goggles
• Paintbrush (angled sash brush)
• Painter's hat and protective clothing
• Paint conditioner (optional)
• Metal scraper
• Paint applicators (brush and special roller)
• Wire brush
• Rust-inhibiting (direct-to-metal) primer
• Electric drill with wire brush drill accessory
• Rust-inhibiting paint

• Tip: Before continuing, take steps to protect the environment and your health. Cover the area under the railings with drop cloths to catch paint chips and dust. Wear a tight-fitting dust mast, goggles, and painter's hat and clothing that covers your skin.

2. Scrape and Scuff-sand: Use a metal scraper and a wire brush to remove loose paint or flaking rust. Then lightly sand all surfaces that you intend to paint. The purpose of scuff-sanding, as this process is called, is to remove all gloss and slightly roughen the surface for improved paint bonding. More aggressive sanding/grinding may be required to smooth a rough or rusty surface.
3. Prepare Rusted Areas: There are two basic ways to deal with rust: remove it or chemically neutralize it. Removal generally yields a smoother surface but neutralizing is often more long-lasting and easier.

To Remove Rust: Sand or grind away rust using an electric drill equipped with a wire brush and/or a sanding pad and abrasive disks; or for light rust hand-sand with emery cloth (a cloth-backed abrasive sheet, which holds up better than paper-backed sandpaper).

To Neutralize Rust: Use a scraper, wire brush, or coarse emery cloth to remove any bubbled paint finish and loose rust. Then brush on a rust neutralizer, such as Rust-Oleum's Rust Reformer (found at most True Value stores), according the directions on the label.

• Tip: Despite careful preparation rust inevitably and eventually reappears. The better you seal the surface from moisture and air, the longer it will be before rust shows its ugly face. For extra protection, apply a paint conditioner such as Penetrol (found at most True Value stores). Unless you are using an aerosol primer, mix it with the primer according to label directions.

• Tip: After using aerosol primer (or paint), tip the can upside down and depress the nozzle for a few seconds until paint stops coming out, and wipe off the nozzle with a cloth. Then the nozzle won't be clogged the next time you use the can.

• Tip: Avoid spraying when there is any wind, and hang a drop cloth or large piece of cardboard behind the railing to catch the overspray. Hold the can about 8-12 inches from your work. Keep the can moving and apply several light coats to minimize dripping.